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Science Fiction
Discuss any and all forms of sci-fi modeling here.
Official tread: Sci-Fi IV
Klaus-Adler
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Posted: Wednesday, September 19, 2018 - 11:45 AM UTC

Quoted Text

Very well done David. The yellow is not unlike the splash of colour you see on German fighters like the Me109. Have you thought of adding call sign numbers? That might also break up the large slabs of camo.

Its also calling out for eyes!!







There are eyes/windows on the upper turret but they are covered in liquid masking gel at the moment.

Just remember to seal your paint work with a clear coat first that way if you make a mistake you can use an eraser/rubber and it won't effect the paint work you've already done
Hudson29
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Posted: Wednesday, September 19, 2018 - 10:04 AM UTC
Thanks for the steer on that pencil, I just ordered one and look forward to giving it a try. My pin washes have not always been pretty . . .
petbat
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Posted: Wednesday, September 19, 2018 - 08:40 AM UTC
Very well done David. The yellow is not unlike the splash of colour you see on German fighters like the Me109. Have you thought of adding call sign numbers? That might also break up the large slabs of camo.

Its also calling out for eyes!!



Klaus-Adler
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Posted: Tuesday, September 18, 2018 - 09:29 PM UTC
Hi guys and gals,

sorry for the slow response but i work nights so it's not always easy to come online and give detailed comments.

first of all i am very surprised that my 0.5mm pencil trick has so many people interested so i have tracked down the one i use on a well known auction site:

0.5mm pencil

i use standard HB refils and this pencil has been in my possession since i was at school and that ladies and gentlemen was well before the turn of the century.

and now something completely different....back to the model in hand as it were.

to break up the somewhat monochromatic appearance of the kit; i decided to add a small splash of colour, the shape of some yellow vertical bands onto the upper hull.

now as some of you might be aware yellow can be a somewhat translucent colour to work with particularly when painting it on to a darker base coat.

with that in mind i began by masking off the area that was to be painted then applied some masking solution using the sponge technique (this was used to add to the worn effect of the paint work) before spraying the area with tamiya flat white. then i i overshot the panel line areas with orange and then over-spraying the whole area with tamiya yellow.

everything was left to dry in the airing cupboard for a day or so before removing all of the tape and masking solution and this is where i am now at. i have deliberately not made the yellow lines symmetrical to the luftwaffe crosses.

brekinapez
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Posted: Tuesday, September 18, 2018 - 10:18 AM UTC

Quoted Text

Looking great guys. A lot of variety here for sure.


Yes, the pencil approach is interesting. Do you use a standard HB graphite or special soft artist pencils?



Myself, I use a variety of pencils both standard and artist for different effects. Colored pencils can also be very useful; I still have all the Berol Prismacolors I bought back in college and actually get more use out of them now on models than I ever did on paper.
petbat
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Posted: Tuesday, September 18, 2018 - 08:10 AM UTC
Looking great guys. A lot of variety here for sure.


Yes, the pencil approach is interesting. Do you use a standard HB graphite or special soft artist pencils?
RedDuster
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Posted: Monday, September 17, 2018 - 07:59 AM UTC
Thank you for all the kind comments guys.

Detail painting on the 3rd wolf



and his rider.



More soon

Cheers

Si
SGTJKJ
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Posted: Sunday, September 16, 2018 - 06:01 AM UTC
Looking really good.
Neat trick with the pencil. I have never used that before. Must be on the to do list for the next kit.
Klaus-Adler
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Posted: Sunday, September 16, 2018 - 12:33 AM UTC
ok so the Hanuebu is coming along nicely now.

the masking tape has been removed and you can see the two different tones used for the camo pattern. what you can also see is that i have added in the detail for the recessed panel lines. most magazines wax lyrical about pin washes but i'm not a great fan of these.

I use a 0.5mm pencil and a small piece if 500 grain sand paper which i use to re-sharpen the point of the pencil after every few panel lines. make sure that you seal your work first with a clear seal coat, the advantage of this is, if you make a mistake you can simply remove it with an eraser/rubber that you would normally use.

once i had done that the panel lines still look a little shiny but that was solved once i gave it another clear coat of matt varnish, before this i added the decals, there are only two of them and i might try and look through the spares box or come up with another idea to break up the monotone look.

the decals were applied and i use micro sol set to soften them so they would adhere to the surface and conform to the shape better. Once dry i distressed the decals with the point of a sharp blade to make them look more worn out which would help them blend in with the faded paint work.

the reason the paint and decals look show shiny in the pictures is because i literally took the pictures after giving them another coat of clear seal.



SGTJKJ
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Posted: Saturday, September 15, 2018 - 06:28 PM UTC
Alex, very cool work. It is very reaslistic looking and one gets the feeling this is actually how it could look. Keep up the great work.

Looking forward to see more
Bluestab
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Posted: Saturday, September 15, 2018 - 09:14 AM UTC
A bit of an update on the Mars Terraform Team.

Speaking of...this is the core of the terraformer. This version is much smaller, trailer mobile, unit. The original design was to be larger with an enclosed interior where the crew could work and even shelter in.
The system works on the idea of using water found beneath the Mars surface. Wells are dug to access the water. It is pumped up to the terraform unit that separates the H20 into hydrogen and oxygen. The oxygen is vented to help enrich the atmosphere. The hydrogen is saved to serve as part of the power for the terraform units. The oxygen and hydrogen can be used by the work crews for their vehicles and suits.

Anyway, the terraformer is a hodgepodge of spares bits. It's more for looks...like a machine. I figure the design would change...smaller, more efficient, less expensive, etc. as each decade passes.
There's also a solar panel for supplemental electric power to the unit. And I made a wellhead.
Those all got a coat of primer.
sci-fi-4_16

Terraformer assembled...mostly. I was going to paint it yellow but went with white instead. I did a partial drybrush job to see how parts looked.
Sorry about the picture. It's pretty dark on the one side and hard to see the details. I might try to repaint those parts to make them easier to see.
sci-fi-4_17

Another view. The mast is the support arm for the solar array. There'll be a battery box mounted to the rear. The other box...the one shown...is for storage or something. Maybe some of the setup/takedown tools. I'm not sure if you can tell but this unit will fit on a trailer. I'm not sure if I'll give the Rover the trailer for it though.
I'll probably give it some yellow for visibility, and some serial numbers to note there's many. I might try to work up a corporate logo to infer this is a private/subcontracted project.

sci-fi-4_18

A couple of shots of the Maintenance Rover. I sprayed it white overall. I'll probably add some yellow to aid visual spotting. And I'll add serial numbers and such. I have to give it some payload which probably will be cases of spare parts. And I have t put the dash/instrument panel in. I might add a short boom crane. The green box over the fender will probably be painted red or orange and serve as the emergency shelter and supplies.
The Rover is a bit different. I like the rugged rock crawler look...it's a workhorse. The Lunar Rover was lower to the ground, but it was pure transportation.
sci-fi-4_19

So that's where it stands. I'll start on the astroworkers soon. I should start wrapping things up on this one.
Trisaw
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Posted: Friday, September 14, 2018 - 12:11 PM UTC
I still have to start mine.

I know what I want to do; I just have to take photos and get started someday...
Klaus-Adler
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Posted: Friday, September 14, 2018 - 08:35 AM UTC

Quoted Text


Quoted Text

Looks cool, David. Seems like the preshading is working well for you. I have had some problems making it work on my models. I end up overpainting it completely so the preshading is invisible.

Looking forward to see more.



I have the same issue. Possibly the overcoat needs to be very thin? Possibly just a quick pass with the spray?




I paint in the panel lines first and then go over the rest of the area using a low pressure and I make quick passes with the airbrush
Hudson29
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Posted: Friday, September 14, 2018 - 05:51 AM UTC

Quoted Text

Looks cool, David. Seems like the preshading is working well for you. I have had some problems making it work on my models. I end up overpainting it completely so the preshading is invisible.

Looking forward to see more.



I have the same issue. Possibly the overcoat needs to be very thin? Possibly just a quick pass with the spray?
SGTJKJ
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Posted: Friday, September 14, 2018 - 03:07 AM UTC
Looks cool, David. Seems like the preshading is working well for you. I have had some problems making it work on my models. I end up overpainting it completely so the preshading is invisible.

Looking forward to see more.
Klaus-Adler
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Posted: Friday, September 14, 2018 - 02:57 AM UTC
well today i have managed mask off the area for the second colour in the camo scheme and then i have applied it. this is dark green and is a tamiya paint. once again i have tried to use the pre-shading technique.

once this is dry and i can clear seal it i will then begin the paint chipping followed by the weathering.

SGTJKJ
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Posted: Thursday, September 13, 2018 - 05:03 PM UTC
Looks Great, Simon!
Pave-Hawk
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Posted: Thursday, September 13, 2018 - 12:35 PM UTC
Those are looking good Simon. Really like the way the wolves are painted.

Though of course, there are no wolves on Fenris
RedDuster
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Posted: Thursday, September 13, 2018 - 05:55 AM UTC

Quoted Text

That is a very fearsome looking wolf. It would terrify me if it was coming in my direction . . .




Don't worry Paul, he just want's to be friends!


More paint going on Wolf No.3



Rider for Wolf No.3



More paint on the rider of Wolf No.2



Detailing the shield on No.1's rider.



Riders test fitted on the first two wolves.



Cheers

Si

Pave-Hawk
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Posted: Monday, September 10, 2018 - 12:05 PM UTC

Quoted Text

Lap man, welcome onboard

Iain, cool choice. The kit looks very close to the Bandai snowspeeder. Maybe same moulds?
I am building mine for the Bandai campaign, so great to hear the fit is good.



Pretty sure Bandai did brand new molds, though from what I have heard it's an excellent kit. A quick look at reviews shows the construction/engineering is a bit different. From what I hear about their X-wing kit, Bandai is a step above the finemolds in terms of quality and "accuracy".

The Finemolds kit only has 3 sprues, one of which is the stand and pilots, and another is just the upper and lower fuselage/wings. The detail parts only take up a single sprue and there are not a lot of parts.
This is my first Fine molds kit, and I am finding the plastic a little harder and more brittle than I am used to. It's not terrible, but sprue cutters cause mild shattering at the join rather than a clean cut, so have to stay clear and clean up with a sharp blade and sandpaper.
SGTJKJ
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Posted: Sunday, September 09, 2018 - 10:16 PM UTC
Lap man, welcome onboard

Iain, cool choice. The kit looks very close to the Bandai snowspeeder. Maybe same moulds?
I am building mine for the Bandai campaign, so great to hear the fit is good.
eMan
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Posted: Sunday, September 09, 2018 - 08:58 PM UTC
Here is my entry to the campaign, Mechanicore 1/100 QMS-400 “KYROSA-Q”.



Pave-Hawk
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Posted: Sunday, September 09, 2018 - 07:30 PM UTC
Unfortunately due to various factors, there is now way I am going to get my cog and skull finished in time for this campaign. So I am swapping over to the Finemolds Snowspeeder



This thing has just fallen together, and after probably less than an hours worth of work, I have 90% assembly, and the cockpit is already primed.

.
Klaus-Adler
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Posted: Sunday, September 09, 2018 - 01:52 AM UTC
well here is a brief update now that i have come home from my holidays.

I have applied Tamiya RLM Grey to the upper hull surface and using pre-shading hope to and the next colour which will be a dark green colour. i have sealed in the RLM Grey with Citadel clear Seal.

Hudson29
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Posted: Thursday, September 06, 2018 - 12:08 PM UTC
That is a very fearsome looking wolf. It would terrify me if it was coming in my direction . . .