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Mirei-san Build (Jamies Version)
JanusAust
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Victoria, Australia
Joined: August 17, 2009
KitMaker: 190 posts
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Posted: Friday, August 20, 2010 - 09:38 PM UTC
Jim,Jeff,
thanks for looking in.

Point of clarification, regarding smoke tint.

For this project, I used a grey smoke. Which is all I could access at the time.

However, if there was a bit more searching, I'm sure other tints could have been found, such as browns, or blacks. So keep those options in mind when sourcing your paints!

As for the Vargas pin ups - yep, Spectacular work, and before airbrushing was widely available - now that means talent!

Cheers

JAmie
old-dragon
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Illinois, United States
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Posted: Saturday, August 21, 2010 - 03:04 AM UTC
She's lookin good! Now, is that the tamiya smoke, or did you mix some black in with some clear coat for tinting? I'm curious if it's the later since that could yield more colorful stockings for those who'd wish to do so.......
JanusAust
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Victoria, Australia
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Posted: Saturday, August 21, 2010 - 07:26 PM UTC
Bob,
it was some gunze sangyo smoke, truth be told......

I will admit, the idea of tinting a clear coat never occurred to me on this, however, that is one of the better thoughts I've seen... I agree, tinting a clear coat of some kind is an interesting idea!

Cheers

Jamie
JimMrr
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Ontario, Canada
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Posted: Sunday, August 22, 2010 - 02:20 AM UTC
I agree....tinting colours would be neat to try ......Ive done it for landing lights using red, green, and blue and it worked well, but that was teeny tiny compared to a figures legs ...but I think it would work ..
Ive seen some very cool effects on Ebay when shopping for figures..one guy had done a Japanese womans stockings in a kind of mettalic red colour...sounds weird, but it was very striking..
old-dragon
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Illinois, United States
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Posted: Sunday, August 22, 2010 - 09:03 AM UTC

Quoted Text

I agree....tinting colours would be neat to try ......Ive done it for landing lights using red, green, and blue and it worked well, but that was teeny tiny compared to a figures legs ...but I think it would work ..
Ive seen some very cool effects on Ebay when shopping for figures..one guy had done a Japanese womans stockings in a kind of mettalic red colour...sounds weird, but it was very striking..


Yeah, to use any metallic or pearl paint thinned down would still give you a shimering effect......also, a run to your local automotive paint supply store{a real one } and you can buy bags of pearl flakes or metallic flakes to add to your paint of choice. The bags are the size of something between a sandwich bag and a quart sized bag but if your lucky they've cut one down to size and would sell you a portion of that origonal bag. It doesn't happen too often, but it could....depends on the store front.
Hey, off subject, but is that HMCS snowberry the old 1/72 airfix ship kit?...I'd love to find one of those! Sorry, back to some more excellent figure building watching-
JanusAust
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Victoria, Australia
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Posted: Monday, August 30, 2010 - 06:20 PM UTC
Too long without a progress report, lets fix that!

Most of the delay has been deciding on whether or not to rework the face (particularly the eyes) and redo the stockings. Sounds easy, but I figure it would mean more of a full blown repaint then just a touch up, so I nixed the idea.

Have decided on colours for the skirt/ jacket and blouse. Because simplicity is the key thing of the figure, I decided to stick close to the original colour pattern of a dark pink - purple for the blouse, and a blue for the rest.

I'll be applying that with an airbrush, so here is where I did the blouse, and part of the 'belt line' for the skirt. Then I'll mask all that up, and spray the lot, before adding shadows and highlights with a brush.



Also added the eyebrows, thin coats built up.



Which is kinda ok, looks odd, until I checked the face by doing the following....



Which helps put the dimensions into place.

She could be a dirty blond (innuendo intended) but I am still going with the brown hair I decided on earlier.

On a subtle note, I did add some strokes to her eyebrows, to hint at individual brow hairs, but very light, and tight.....

Jim, hoping to see some of Morte soon, you're doing good work with her, for a whole new field for you!


Cheers

Jamie
JimMrr
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Ontario, Canada
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Posted: Tuesday, August 31, 2010 - 12:46 PM UTC

Quoted Text


Jim, hoping to see some of Morte soon, you're doing good work with her, for a whole new field for you!


@Jamie- Ive been running lately trying to get a campaign entry done over on Aeroscale...I hadnt realized the time had slipped away!..I also have started a new job...but now 2 days in I have been laid off again for a week or so..(were demolishing a building and putting up a new one),,so suddenly I have a week or so to paint!!
Its thanks to you that I was able to get a start on this figure..I kept spinning my wheels trying to figure out how to start...
@Bob- I started 2 Corvette kits in conjunction..one was Matchbox, the other Revell..check out "flower power" over on model shipwrights..
JanusAust
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Victoria, Australia
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Posted: Saturday, September 18, 2010 - 05:09 PM UTC
Updates on the Way!

Have fiddled around, trying to get the chair height right (so one of her feet touches the ground) and am pretty satisfied with that so far.

Have also masked up the torso, so I can airbrush the skirt....which was going along well, until I fumbled the figure, and knocked it out of the sand filled jar....now she has a light coating of grit on her skirt (well out of scale) and so once the paint dries, I'll pick off the bits (or sand back) and then lay down another coat of blue for the skirt.

I am also in the process of painting her shoes black, then I'll be adding gloss and satin coats.

WIP pictures to follow, thanks for looking

Cheers

JanusAust
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Victoria, Australia
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Posted: Saturday, September 18, 2010 - 10:45 PM UTC
Ok,
pics as promised.

These are more getting fit sorted out.

The upright for the chair, I replaced that with some brass tube for strength, and a styrene tube outer, so the brass tube wouldn't wobble.

Glued it all together, then realised I should have measured it all up.......

sigh......

so once some time became available, I lashed the figure together, and carefully cut the stand down, till Mireis shoe could touch ground level.

So here she is, major parts held together with either masking tape or blu-tack, (aka silly putty) until I could measure, cut, and get the sit mostly correct.







More to follow,

give me a few days though,

cheers

PS - check my blog if you wish, more shared techniques there, going back a while.

http://jnsminiaturemoments.blogspot.com/

majjanelson
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South Carolina, United States
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Posted: Sunday, September 26, 2010 - 09:16 AM UTC
Jamie,

I just noticed these Archer Human Eyeball Decals. I actually just read about them in my Model Military International Magazine Issue 54, OCT10 (page 57).
You proabaly are past the point to use these, but just in case...
JanusAust
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Victoria, Australia
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Posted: Monday, September 27, 2010 - 12:25 PM UTC
Hiya Jeff,
Using these for eyes,
well, mixed thoughts...

I could see how useful they would be, particularly in larger scale, to ensure symmetry.

However, it may also restrict choices and options too.

For example, Mirei is looking up, as she tilts her head. (peering from under her lashes in a flirty look)
To use the decals, I'd have to trim and cut them; the iris doesn't fully show.

It's good that archer give us the full eye to work with, however, so we can cut. carve and paint over......

For me, I'd rather continue to use my painting skills.......

Still, good contribution, others may want to explore the option!


cheers
Keeperofsouls2099
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Florida, United States
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Posted: Monday, November 15, 2010 - 03:33 PM UTC
how is the build coming sir
JanusAust
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Victoria, Australia
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Posted: Tuesday, November 16, 2010 - 08:36 PM UTC
Hi Justin,

real life has dragged me away (mumbling under my breath, not kicking and screaming) as I had to help with buying some new property in preparation for a upcoming move in a few months...

plus, I have been organising my holiday to Japan (first real holiday n more then 6 years, oh wow!) so that has displaced my hobby time.

However, thanks for looking in and reminding e, once I return, I will finish this project.

Sorry for the delays, thanks for your patience.

Estimated return in about the 27th of November.

Cheers


Jamie
JanusAust
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Posted: Saturday, February 19, 2011 - 10:15 PM UTC
Finally! I hear you all say, and justly so....

Ok, after fiddling with fit, sanding, shaping, and trying to reshape by placing the parts in hot water, I realised that I had to man up, and move on with the kit.

so I primed, then base coated the jacket, and the hair.

Handy hint/ good practice, when ever I apply glue to something that has a peg & hole set up, I always apply the glue to the hole (where possible)

This allows the peg to squish the glue up the sides of the hole, and minimises over flow.

If you apply the glue to the peg, then as the peg slides into the hole, if it is a close fit, then the sides of the hole can scrape the glue off, leaving minimal glue, and creating a sausage ring of glue that needs cleaning up



So here's how I did it.
JanusAust
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Posted: Saturday, February 19, 2011 - 10:25 PM UTC
Once I had the parts cleaned up (a quick scrape with a scalpel)

I applied epoxy resin to the inside of the joints.

I didn't pin these as they aren't load bearing structures (no weight to speak of, so no need for reinforcement)

You will see how I prepainted the inner surfaces - because of all the curves, I wouldn't be able to get a brush in there later on, thus the prepainting.

I also prepainted the outer surface, knowing i will have to do touch up work. Personally, I went down this road, because I couldn't see any alternative that wasn't any more or less fiddly, and this way, I could make sure i wouldn't miss any spots one the arms are in place.

I put a rubber band around the figure, just to keep the parts together while the epoxy set. Some have commented on how it resembles something else......

Torso front - there is a gap between the jacket front halves, not visible from this angle....


Back half, a small trench from collar to hem...


The rubber band around the figure, that inspired so many comments....


JanusAust
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Posted: Saturday, February 19, 2011 - 10:30 PM UTC
while I was prepainting the jacket, I also primed and painted the hair - I choose ochre, as it is a simple color, lends a warm tone to the figure, and is easy enough to highlight and shade.

It also allowed me to work out an order on putting the hair parts together; namely back half, front half, then collar.

The collar covers part of the back half of hair, while the front has a bit the lies on both sides of the collar, making for a lovely look, but a fiddle to for fit....









Currently, I have some two part putty curing in the gaps, I will be sanding those back, then retouching the paint.

Thanks for looking in guys, I felt a bit guilty about taking so long to get back to the bench.

Regards,
old-dragon
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Posted: Sunday, February 20, 2011 - 02:59 AM UTC
Nah, life happens to us all! She's looking great and I especially like the rope...I mean rubber bands. Too bad it can't be built as a phone in one hand and a caption at the base saying, "sorry, can't talk right now - I'm all tied up at the moment".........
rv1963
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New York, United States
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Posted: Sunday, February 20, 2011 - 04:39 AM UTC
Nice kit the pose looks very natural and you have done some great work so far, i am looked forward to your updates, i love those large scale resin figures.
JanusAust
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Victoria, Australia
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Posted: Saturday, February 26, 2011 - 05:25 PM UTC
More work.

Got over my irrational fear of using putty to fill gaps (don't know how it came about - I've used the stuff before) and filled the trench down the back, and the gap in the front.

I first started by laying down some protective masking tape, so any slips with putty, sculpting tools, or other implements wouldn't result in massive rework......

This is what she looked like, after I applied some two part, air hardening, putty to her. (back view only shown)




I did something similar for the front, also masked up the figure.....



After a week at work, I finally got some time to finish what I had started.
Put a fresh scalpel in, and then gently carved away the putty. Making sure I followed the curves that were already sculpted in.

The curves are where the jacket bunches and/ or creases as she sits and leans, so a bit of gentle work, and it makes it so much easier.

Followed by a rat tile file (circular) then some sandpaper.

I will have to repaint this, however, I was clever enough to keep the colour as a "straight out of the bottle" colour, rather then some mind bending, hair tearing customer mix.

(At least, I'd like to think I was that clever, unless I have been accidentally clever through being lazy; much more likely)



Next, I think I'll be putting the arms on, filling gaps again, then applying paint.

Cheers




JanusAust
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Posted: Saturday, April 09, 2011 - 08:37 PM UTC
Ok, arms attached.
and matter how I wiggled, jiggled or fiddled, the fit was not great, there being a noticeable step between the shoulder and the sleeve. bit much, even for a power type suit of 80's era fashion.


Over all view.



So I masked up her head (again) to protect finished work being damaged or destroyed by putty or sanding sticks/ files.

Sanded back, then grabbed some pro-create 2 part putty.

about 1/2 pea each, mix till an even grey, then I made it into thin snakes.

I smoothed it into the gaps, and tried to blend it into the the rest of the figure as well as I could.

To cut back on the stickiness, I dipped my spatula/ sculpting tool into some talcum powder, which helps prevent sticking.
(and eases chafing and nappy rash, but not in this context)

set aside to let putty cure.



While I was at, I add some blobs to the broken/malformed parts of the jacket collar.

The plan will be to carve these back, so both sides of the jacket collar match.



Painting this Tuesday.

sigh, Life will keep showing up....

Cheers


JanusAust
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Posted: Friday, April 15, 2011 - 10:35 PM UTC
Ok, next steps.

First, the Mummy!





Ok, putty dry, time to get ready for some airbrush work. As always, break out the masking tape for the large areas, then the blu-tack (sometimes known as silly putty for my overseas friends) and apply to all areas I wish to be other then blue.

2nd pic shows where I carved back the putty blobs; one worked, the other, well, not really. Still, good to try, and get some results form the effort. Other details I could carve in I'll add with painted effects.

I am glad I went for a 'straight from the bottle' colour, rather then a custom mix. It has saved me so much work, given the amount of work and rework I have had to do on this figure.

Masked up, compressor ready, lets get to it!

And yes, it does resemble some odd kind of 'Mummy' as in ancient Egyptian wrapped up.....





well, filling and shaping the putty really gave good results. 1st Pic shows that the contours are still there on the jacket, but most of the trench is gone. Still some spots that require a touch of filler, but way better then the trench that was there before.

One thing I am a bit annoyed about is the tiny amount of over spray, one on the hinge point of the left jaw, the other just behind the right ear. Way better then having to rework the face at this late stage.

Oh, the airbrush.....it seems I spend more time masking the subject up and prepping (then cleaning) the airbrush, then I do actually painting with the airbrush.

still, for covering large areas smoothly, quickly, still quicker then hand brushing.
old-dragon
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Posted: Wednesday, April 27, 2011 - 10:59 AM UTC
"Overspray on the neck"- can I make a suggestion sir? I've done that on the model cars before{hate when that happens!} and what I did was take a Q-tip with some polishing compound on it to buff that paint off of there...a touch of flat afterwards would finish it up I'd bet.{gloss in my case}
JanusAust
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Posted: Saturday, April 30, 2011 - 02:12 PM UTC
Great Idea!

what kind of polishing compound though?

I don't want to get something to aggressive that will strip paint, not this close to the finish!

Cheers
old-dragon
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Posted: Saturday, April 30, 2011 - 04:46 PM UTC

Quoted Text

Great Idea!

what kind of polishing compound though?

I don't want to get something to aggressive that will strip paint, not this close to the finish!

Cheers



Yeah, masking bleeds and the like....it's a hassle. I use two different types of buffing compounds. One is "3M Imperial microfinishing liquid compound" - I have a big 32oz bottle of it still from repainting the old snowmobiles and cycle so it does added duty here as well and because I still have alot of it left!. The other one is the "Novus #2 fine scratch remover" . Spray some of the skin tone paint on a piece of scrap anything, then the blue paint over it{alittle splotch} and use what you may have around there on a Q-tip to remove the blue...on the scrap piece{could be a simple sheet of styrene}.

I found a neat pic of some woman with nylons online that had the usual transparency but they had a pattern added in a thicker way...looked too cool for my build....will look even cooler when/if I can figure out how to do it!!!